Is Isla Mujeres safe?

Our expert answers readers' questions about Mexico, artists' colonies, Belize and touring Java by train.
Every Wednesday, travel expert Donald D. Groff will answer readers' questions in Travel Advisor. Groff has been dispensing travel advice for a decade for such publications as the Philadelphia Inquirer, Newsday, the Boston Globe and the Kansas City Star. Got a travel question? E-mail our Travel Advisor! TravelAdvisor@salon.com.

How safe is travel to Isla Mujeres in Mexico this summer? I'm planning a trip there with one of my female friends and have heard some of the press about the dangerous situation in Mexico recently. How much of this is hype? Do you have any suggestions for a safe trip to that area?

Isla Mujeres, located a short ferry ride from Cancun off the Yucatan Peninsula, is tame territory. The island is only about five miles long and the atmosphere is unhurried, uncrowded and, except for the precautions you'd take anywhere, not targeted by the U.S. State Department's warnings. Those warnings focus on border areas and Mexico City.

For a good source on safety issues in Mexico, visit the site of "Mexico Mike" Nelson and click on "safety tips." There also are links to other Mexico sites, including a discussion area for contacting people who already have visited your destinations.

A good description of Isla Mujeres, complete with maps of the island's few roads and main town, can be found in the recent guidebook "Yucatan & Southern Mexico," by Nick Rider, a Cadogan guide distributed by Globe Pequot Press (1999).

For really local advice, Mundaca Travel, a travel and real estate agency based on Isla Mujeres, has a Web site and a toll-free number (from within the United States) for inquiries at (888) 420-3613.

I am a recent graduate with a B.A. in graphic design. I work full-time as a Web designer, but I find that there is not a very strong artists' community in my town (Raleigh, N.C.) -- it's especially hard to find young, intelligent artists who are motivated and doing a lot of new and different stuff. Anyway, where in the world are the best artists' communities? Places to be accepted as an artist and also surrounded by inspiring people?

Whether you're looking to relocate or simply vacation, the question of artistic community is neatly addressed in "The 100 Best Small Art Towns in America: Discover Creative Communities, Fresh Air, and Affordable Living," by John Villani (John Muir Publications, 3rd edition, 1998). Besides places you'd expect, such as Santa Fe, N.M.; Key West, Fla.; and Carmel, Calif., the book spotlights a wide range of towns that loom small on the map but large in the realm of artistic possibility.

Most of them offer more than just art -- they have pleasing settings, fresh air and outdoor diversions. Durango and Telluride, Colo., are among them, as are Sun Valley, Idaho; Jackson, Wyo.; Eureka Springs, Ark.; Oxford, Miss.; Athens, Ga.; Beaufort and Hilton Head, S.C.; and Charlottesville, Va. Many of these towns have universities nearby, or tourism industries that help support a hearty arts community.

North Carolina fares well, actually, with four small arts cities: Chapel Hill, Beaufort, Morehead City and Wilmington.

Most of the chapters are two pages long, with descriptions of local lifestyles, the arts scene and basics such as art spaces, art events, hangouts, bookstores and public radio stations. There's also an "art talk" interview in which one or more artists speak to the local scene. The book can be found in stores, on Web booksellers or through Muir at (800) 888-7504.

I have a question about Belize. Where would you spend more time in this country: Dangriga (near Jaguar Preserve and Cockscomb Park) or Ambergris Caye (near the town of San Pedro, a beach and snorkeling site)? We are interested in seeing wildlife and experiencing the local culture. Also, do you have any tips or ideas for what is exceptional to see or do, or what we need to know about this destination?

Belize is a fascinating place, but don't get your hopes up for spotting jaguars. Despite its titillating name, the park's rangers will be the first to tell you that the reclusive cats are virtually never seen in the wild. Still, the country has plenty of wildlife and soothing scenery to make you feel you're discovering something new. You might want to make the eco-savvy Belize Zoo west of Belize City one of your early stops, so you'll have an idea what kind of animals you're looking for on the rest of your trip.

I suggest you try to spend time both on Ambergris Caye -- the traditional Belize holiday, with sand, surf and sunshine -- and in the interior, where you have many options for seeing the real Belize, meeting people and taking in the preserves and other natural features. Many wilderness lodges have sprung up, and using them as your base, you can take various trips to explore ruins. From San Ignacio in the far west, you can take a canoe trip operated by locals or jeep excursions to waterfalls and verdant valleys. ( You can also take a day trip to the ruins at Tikal in Guatemala.)

If at all possible, rent your own vehicle for getting around, at least for part of the trip. Using public transit is tedious and the routes are limited; in the interior having your own wheels is the way to go.

Two good guidebooks that include itinerary possibilities are "The New Key to Belize," by Stacy Ritz (Ulysses Press, 3rd edition, 1998) and "Explore Belize," by Harry S. Pariser (Hunter Publishing, 4th edition, 1998).

Also for planning, look at Belize Online. The Belize Tourist Board can be reached by calling (800) 624-0686.

Another way to scout out the local scene before arriving is to look at newspaper Web sites. On Ambergris Caye, check out the San Pedro Sun.

Other sites for gleaning information prior to your trip are Belize by Natural Light and the Belize Times.

I'd like to see Java by train. Are there any rail tours available?

It is indeed possible to cross Java, Indonesia's biggest island, by train, and there are many rich destinations on or near the rails, including the cultural capital, Jogkakarta. But I expect you would have a hard time finding a tour company with Java rail packages, at least from the United States.

The Javanese train standards generally don't live up to what international tour operators expect for their package tours, and the recent economic uncertainties in Indonesia have created a climate that makes international operators shy away. (The exception might be Dutch operators, who have a history of putting together tours in this former Dutch colony.)

Still, you could plan your own tour, keeping in mind that you probably won't be able to make reservations until arriving in Indonesia. If you scout around the Web, you may find someone who has already been there and done that.

A good site for tracking down rail trips around the world is TrainWeb.com.

Lonely Planet's travel survival kit "Java" (first edition, 1995) has good information on train travel in its "getting around" section, including a map of rail routes. For online information about Java, including links, go to Lonely Planet's Indonesia site.

Another site with good links is the official Tourism Indonesia site.

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