In America, focus groups are conducted in stale, windowless rooms in sick-building-syndrome "facilities" generally located in Takoma Park, Md., and possessing an almost experimental ugliness. Our Milan focus groups, by contrast, took place in a market-research palazzotto with stone-vaulted ceilings and a resplendent, rose-gold color scheme. In lieu of the usual focus group repast of Fritos and M&Ms, there was risotto, tagliatelle and hot, fresh focaccia. As we lounged on crimson settees, waiting for the respondents to arrive, we consumed large quantities of sweet biscuits, macaroons and little jellies and puddings. A parlormaid, Giulia, poured water from a blue jug.

The group had been scheduled to start at 8. At 8:15 the respondents started to file in. "Oh my God," breathed my colleague, Rehana Dutta. Her excitement was understandable. These were not the typical sad-sack focus group respondents, underemployed "cheaters and repeaters" lured by the $50 "incentive" and a promise of free salty snacks. No, these were bona fide international businessmen, fancily dressed in fine-spun wool suits and projecting an aura of crisp success. "Buonasera!" they bellowed in synchrony, shaking hands around the table. "Buonasera!"

"You see what has happened?" whispered our translator, Nicoletta. "They look at each other and know they are important people. So they introduce themself. They exchange business cards ... This is the way important men behave."

She was right. As we looked over the seating chart, our eyes bulged as we saw just who our recruiter, a firm called Market Dynamics International, had managed to round up for our market-research pleasure. Here was Rosario M., head of marketing for Hasbro Italy. Here was Edgar S., finance director for Kodak Italia. The plump gentleman on the far left? He was none other than Giovanni A., director of IT for International Paper. In short, a dream recruit, packed with high-level, B-to-B decision makers at Fortune 500 corporations. I winced as I thought of our last U.S. group -- a painful affair, curiously dominated by mid-level sanitary-napkin executives. "This is incredible," marveled the Headsnack client. "I mean, look at these guys. They are our target."

Unlike our Fritos-nibbling American respondents, who tend to be grizzled market-research veterans, our Italian group seemed charmingly unaware of the very existence of focus groups. "Let me explain to you," began our moderator, the stylishly handsome Clara Origlia. "This is what we call a 'focus group,' or panel discussion. You have involved yourself in a process to help another company. Please be understanding of that fact.

"There is something else I must say," Origlia continued, in a tone of urgent purpose. "In terms of honesty and correctness, it is my duty to inform you that I have people in the back room. From behind the mirror, they are watching you."

The men gazed at Origlia with a ferocious, transfixed expression. "Who are these people?" demanded Giuseppe R.

"They are international colleagues of mine," our moderator replied.

"I do not like this arrangement!" shouted Giuseppe, as his fellow respondents nodded their agreement. "I am more comfortable seeing people's faces."

"If you have objections to the people behind the mirror, please speak up," urged Origlia. "Please voice your objections. This is your right!

"You are free to leave!" she added. "You are actually free to leave!"

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