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In the land of the Yomiuri Giants | page 1, 2

It was an important game; the home Yomiuri Giants have a pedigree and domination over the years that make them the closest thing to a Japanese version of the Yankees, although they have been off their game in recent seasons. The Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper founded the Dai Nippon Tokyo Yakyu Kurabu (the Great Japan Tokyo Baseball Club) in 1934, two years before the Japan Professional League was brought into existence.

The visiting Yokohama Bay Stars (only in a country of non-native English speakers could a team get a name like that) had to travel only 30 miles or so up the bay. This also meant their fans came with them, making a nearly even balance of supporters between the two teams.

Unlike their American counterparts, Japanese fans have found a way to be loud without being rowdy, intense while remaining restrained. With such a hometown rivalry, the outfield bleachers became a specimen of self-imposed Jim Crow seating arrangements; Giants fans took the right-field side and Bay Stars fans took left field.

Numerous fans in each section came with their own drums and percussion, which were beaten continuously for the entire half inning when their team was batting. Then the other team was up and it was time for their fans to pick up the beat, while the other side fell silent. This meant that for the whole game, there was never a moment of quiet. It was like being stuck in a three-hour version of "In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida."

It was a great game. The Giants launched a late comeback and managed to win, keeping the energy high until the end and leaving the home fans happy. I had finally seen a real Japanese ballgame, and the team I was rooting for won. The game was fun, but the result didn't concern me. I did not feel in any visceral way satisfied by knowing the Giants had won. All I could think about was finding an evening paper to see how my Mets had done the night before.

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Weeks before they left New York for the 14-hour flight to Tokyo and today's game, Mets players were already complaining about the rigors of long-distance travel and jet lag. The team even had a clock installed in the clubhouse during spring training displaying local time in Tokyo.

And though the games at the Tokyo Dome are being broadcast in New York on both television and radio, I don't think anyone is expecting big ratings; even the most die-hard Mets fans will have trouble rousing themselves for a 5:05 a.m. first pitch -- New York time.

I, however, will be enjoying both games, sitting comfortably in front of the TV. I'm used to baseball over breakfast.
salon.com | March 29, 2000

 

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Sasha Issenberg writes for George magazine.

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