Force of nature

In "Where Mountains Are Nameless," fearless adventurer Jonathan Waterman makes a passionate, personal case for preserving the Arctic Wildlife Refuge -- and the polar bears and caribous that call it home.

By Katharine Mieszkowski

Read more: Books, Adventure, Nature, Reviews, Book reviews, Katharine Mieszkowski

Aug. 2, 2005 | Jonathan Waterman has been stalked by a polar bear that was so hungry it ate his feces. He has swum in icy waters to catch his runaway kayak, only to later singe off most of his body hair warming up by a fire to try to avoid hypothermia. And he has stumbled upon the half-eaten carcass of a caribou stored by an engorged grizzly for future feasting, risking coming between the bear and its next meal.

But none of these is the scariest of Waterman's encounters in "Where Mountains Are Nameless," an impressionistic account of his 18 excursions to the Arctic over 20 years. That honor goes to his conversation with the enthusiastic driver of a Princess Tour bus whom he met while visiting the oil industry town of Deadhorse, Alaska: "Twenty-five years ago this was all a wasteland. Now look at it: It's a modern industrial complex!" the driver exclaimed enthusiastically.

One man's progress is another man's "industrial perdition," as Waterman dubs the area near the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge that has already been drilled. And that same perdition -- or progress -- may represent the refuge's future, since right now it's close to being opened to oil exploration. Waterman's latest book -- he has written eight other adventure tales -- is a bid to defend the Arctic refuge by weaving stories from his own travels there with those of the couple who protected it in the first place: Olaus and Mardy Murie.

It's clear from book's beginning that Waterman is firmly on the side of the caribous, musk oxen, polar bears and now-deceased Muries, not the guy driving the tour bus in Deadhorse. And despite what some bar graphs lurking in the book's appendix might lead you to think, this is not really an argument about how little recoverable oil is likely to be percolating under the tundra. Waterman makes his case for preservation by sharing his experiences of a remote and unforgiving landscape, and as such, it delivers.

Each time Waterman visits the far North, he sustains hundreds of mosquito bites before redeveloping a natural antibody to them and the bites finally stop itching. But to Waterman, this periodic bloodletting, and the other physical and emotional hardships of traveling in real wilderness, often alone, are more than a personal trial by fire; they mean that there are fewer other travelers and he'll be able to see more. The wildlife doesn't disappoint. He spies five mewing wolf pups -- "cinnamon-colored fur balls atop uncertain legs" -- outside their den; sees eight musk oxen, which "resembled loose, waist-high piles of hay," circling protectively around a grazing calf; and catches a fox in the act of rummaging through his kayak cockpit while he's trying to sleep nearby.

And that's not even to mention all his beguilingly close encounters with animals he's actually afraid could kill him. Apparently, one of the worst things about surviving a grizzly bear mauling is possible infection from the bear's bite. "The lack of grizzly hygiene, augmented by their taste for carrion and their frequent gorging on flesh wriggling with an assortment of pathogens, causes septic wounds in humans who have been bitten," Waterman explains. Far from any hospital, he carries antibiotics, hydrogen peroxide and morphine with him, just in case.

Then there are the Muries' Arctic adventures. It turns out that the land now encompassed by the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge was actually threatened by development much earlier in its history -- not for its oil but for its caribous. The U.S. Biological Survey in Washington -- since absorbed into the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service -- had the bright idea of introducing domesticated reindeer into the herds of wild caribou in hopes of taming the lot of them. And Olaus Murie, a biologist originally from Minnesota who had studied Arctic birds, was charged with going there to figure out how to best get the job done. But his fieldwork took him in a different direction.

Next page: "They'll never drill the Arctic refuge. It just won't happen"