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Warped, battered, torn and stained | page 1, 2, 3
For years, my fridge contained exactly three staples: a six pack, cat
food and a giant tub of low-fat margarine. But once I moved in with my
spouse, a guy who actually knew the proper way to season a chicken and
how long to boil a potato, I felt the need to get up to speed. A friend
who managed a Williams-Sonoma shop offered two simple words of advice
--"Silver Palate" -- and I never looked back. With its folksy
illustrations and simple, friendly instructions, the seminal volume from
caterers-turned-authors Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins had me whipping up
fruits de mer pasta and carpetbaggers steak like a champ in no time. Today, the pages in my 9-year-old copy of "The New Basics" are
obscured in some parts with thick white smudges of dough, rendered
translucent in others by big dollops of olive oil and butter. Mostly,
however, they're brown. Depending on what section of the book I'm
perusing, the brown may be a light, basalmic vinegar hazel, a deep soy
sauce auburn, a creamy biscuit gravy chestnut or an unmistakable dark
chocolate mahogany. Even the parts of the book that aren't stained have
the weather-beaten look of pages that have sopped up more than their
share of milk, water, white wine and chicken broth. In short, it's all
shot to hell. While it's admittedly disgusting, the condition of my cookbook is also
pretty handy -- the encrusted, wrinkly pages with the recipes for salmon
croquettes and Grandma Clark's soda bread practically open themselves
when I need them. And they remind me that even though over time I've
managed to become a pretty decent chef, I'm still also the same slob my
beloved first fell in love with all those years ago. -- Mary Elizabeth Williams Buy "The Silver Palate Cookbook" at B&N.com - - - - - - - - - - - - Fields of Greens: New Vegetarian Recipes from the Celebrated Greens Restaurant I'm not a vegetarian, but too many salmonella warnings have left me with
an abiding horror of raw meat, especially chicken, which in its uncooked
form reminds me of the monsters that come slithering up the cellar steps
at the end of H.P. Lovecraft stories. (Besides, I'm not up for the hassles of
cleaning up after it -- you practically have to don a decontamination
suit and spray down your kitchen with liquid nitrogen.) So vegetables it is, and Deborah Madison's "The Greens Cookbook" it was,
for a year or two, until I got tired of recipes that, even if they
turned mere produce into ambrosia, all seemed to take three hours to
prepare. Then along came Annie Somerville's "Fields of Greens."
(Somerville was, like Madison, a chef at the famous San Francisco
vegetarian restaurant.) Somerville has Madison's sorceror's touch, an
uncanny knowledge of which little additional ingredients -- diced
olives, lemon zest, saffron, chive blossoms -- will punch a pleasant
vegetable pasta dish into indisputable scrumptiousness. One of the
recipes here can transform stolid, sulfury broccoli into something
downright yummy (it's the broccoli and roasted red pepper linguine) and
another manages, through the heroic deployment of a whole head of
roasted garlic, to make lentil soup taste like something other than
clay. But Somerville's recipes, with some exceptions, are less
time-consuming and fussily demanding than Madison's. Somerville has never written another cookbook, and when ordering a copy
of "Field of Greens" off the Web for some friends, I noticed several
forlorn reader reviews indicating that I'm not the only one dismayed by
this. A comeback is definitely in order. -- Laura Miller Buy "Fields of Greens" at B&N.com
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